I’ve been living in Canggu (Bali) for the past four years and honestly I love it. The rice fields the endless cafés the chaos—it’s been home. But lately I keep catching myself thinking… am I missing out? Everyone and their dog seems to be moving down south to Uluwatu, the famous “cliff country” of Bali.
Traffic in Canggu is insane these days. Tourism is back with a punch. Every other friend of mine is suddenly posting clifftop sunsets and surf reels and I’m sitting there like… hmmm should I be down there too?
So of course I got that little itch. Is the grass greener on the other side? Only one way to find out—I packed a bag, hopped on my scooter, and spent a whole week in Uluwatu.
And let me tell you… it’s a very different vibe.
Here’s the truth about Canggu vs Uluwatu, straight from someone who’s lived in both now.
First Glimpse: Rice Fields vs Cliffs
Canggu is green fields, motorbikes squeezing past each other on tiny shortcuts, hipster cafés on every corner. It’s flat, kind of walkable in some parts, busy in others.
Uluwatu hits you straight away cliffs. Drama. That wild feeling of standing at the edge of the world. My very first stop wasn’t even anyone’s land, just an open cliff where you could look down at turquoise water smashing the rocks below. I literally said out loud “how have I not been here more often?”
If Canggu feels like Bali’s buzzing expat town Uluwatu feels like Bali’s untamed edge.
Living Setup: Villa Life in Both
In Canggu I’ve always had options—villas, guesthouses, apartments. Prices aren’t cheap anymore but you can still find everything from budget to “Instagram villa of your dreams.”
In Ulu I skipped the hotels and stayed with locals—Omar from Italy and Chloe from France. They’ve built their life down there. Cozy little villa, surfboards stacked, outdoor showers, the works. And honestly it made me feel more “Ulu local” than booking a fancy clifftop resort.
But here’s the thing. In Canggu water just flows. In Ulu most villas aren’t on the main system. People literally truck in water. As a tourist you’ll never notice but as someone living there long term? Extra cost and kinda a worry. What if there’s a shortage one day. Something I’d have to think about before moving.
Daily Rituals: Gym, Food, Routine
Let’s be real—I can’t survive without my rituals. Gym and good food. That’s how I keep myself sane in Canggu and I needed to see if Ulu could give me the same.
Gyms
Canggu is mecca for fitness. CrossFit boxes, boutique gyms, yoga everywhere. The gym scene is top notch.
Ulu? People kept saying there are no gyms. Total lie. There are gyms just smaller, less shiny, some old equipment. The one I tried was tight but it did the job. And here’s the kicker—a whole year membership cost me the same as one month in Canggu. Wild.
Food
Canggu food scene is endless. Brunch spots, vegan bowls, sushi, BBQ at Rolling Fork. Whatever you crave it’s five minutes away.
Ulu surprised me though. Fewer restaurants yes but quality. One brunch at Chela nearly knocked me out—halloumi, shakshuka, waffles, bacon-wrapped dates, avocado, hummus, all of it. Ruby and I shared it, cost us $14. For both. Compared to Canggu prices I was like… hmm maybe Ulu has the edge here.
And then there was the $6 all-you-can-eat pizza night at La Barraca. No words. I only regret the next morning.
Beaches: The Biggest Divide
Here’s the thing. Canggu beaches don’t wow me anymore. Black sand, busy, full of surfers and beach bars. They have a vibe but it’s not the postcard Bali.
Uluwatu beaches though? Different world. White sand, turquoise water, tucked under cliffs. Getting there is a workout—prepare for staircases of doom—but when you make it down it’s paradise.
I finally went to Nyang Nyang Beach after years of ignoring it and I couldn’t believe I’d skipped it all this time. Empty, raw, insanely beautiful. Same with Balangan—it instantly became one of my favorites in Bali.
If beaches are your thing Ulu just destroys Canggu. No competition.
Surf Culture vs Digital Nomad Hub
Canggu is Bali’s expat HQ. It’s the place for digital nomads. Entrepreneurs with laptops in cafés, co-working spaces packed, people hustling. And yeah there’s a party scene too but if you want to network and grow, Canggu is it.
Uluwatu is a whole different world. Surf is the religion here. You wake up, check waves, surf. And if you’re not surfing you’re probably doing yoga, tantra, meditation, ceremonies or just chilling with a coconut on a cliff. It’s conscious, slower, less hustle.
Me? I love the surf vibe even though I’m terrible. Renting a surf board for $3.50 and paddling out was humbling. Locals carving up waves like gods while I’m just trying to stand. But the energy—contagious.
Nightlife & Social Scene
Canggu nightlife = beach clubs, bar hopping, live music, endless events. You can go out every night if you want.
Ulu nightlife = quieter. Some bars, a couple beach club parties, mostly dinners and early nights. My wildest night there was eating too much pizza and passing out before 10pm.
But honestly waking up fresh at sunrise, walking the cliffs, sipping coffee with that ocean view… it beats a hangover.
Cost of Living
This one’s easy. Ulu wins for now.
- Food: Cheaper overall, no Instagram-tax cafés everywhere.
- Gyms: Cheaper memberships, less variety though.
- Villas: Still more affordable than Canggu but climbing fast.
Canggu has everything but it comes at a cost.
Development & The Future
Canggu is already built up. Ulu is catching up. Everywhere I looked—new restaurants, beach clubs, co-working, even a CrossFit box being built. Give it five years and I think Ulu might look like Canggu but with cliffs and way better beaches.
So the question is—do I move now or wait and see what it becomes?
So… Where Would I Live?
Here’s my truth after living in both.
Canggu is where I thrive. I like the hustle, the energy, the community. It keeps me motivated.
Uluwatu is where I breathe. The cliffs, the beaches, the sunsets—it feels like Bali magic again.
If I had a second home I’d pick Uluwatu easy. But for now I’m staying in Canggu. I’m a go-go-go person and Ulu is still too sleepy for me full time.
That said I know myself. I’ll keep sneaking down whenever Canggu feels too crowded, I’ll keep feeling that FOMO, and maybe one day when Ulu has more co-working and buzz—I’ll make the switch.
Until then Canggu keeps me hustling, Ulu keeps me dreaming. And honestly I’m just lucky I get to bounce between both.
So what about you? Would you pick rice fields or cliffs. Hustle or surf. Canggu or Uluwatu?